Oct. 2nd 2011

Welcome to the UK!

UK? Yes, it is a stopover in London Heathrow on my way to Phoenix. Just about two hours time to leave the terminal for a while and some cigarettes of course.
At 14. 25 p.m. local time, the big 747 leaves the ground. Take off. Ten hours until we will touch the ground again in Arizona. Well, the flight is boring, annoying and endless. I'm sandwiched between a young Rumanian and an older US citizen. The meals are third rated, but we get lots of drinks. I try to watch one movie after the other, but always fall asleep after a while. After several hours most passengers start to walk around and so do I.
That little airplane on the moving map seems to be nailed to its position. Haven't we been over the Hudson Bay hours ago???? Finally and nearly in time the plane reaches Phoenix Sky Harbor. At last we made it.

Next step in this venture is to get the stamp into my passport, which allows me to enter the USA. The friendly officer at the immigration counter asks me how long I'm already retired. And after giving ten fingerprints and standing still for a photo (Don't smile!) I get the stamp into my passport. Now I'm a legal alien for ninety days. That's really kind, isn't it?

Welcome to Phoenix, Arizona, USA!

The friendly young fellow at the information counter gives the ABS shuttle driver a call. Joey, the driver, picks me up only a few minutes later. He's 75 years old and he takes good care of his passengers. This time I'm the only one and I get a bottle with ice-cold water.
He's really a nice guy and we talk nearly all the way to Wickenburg. Two short breaks we make, for some free hot coffee and a cigarette. That's service!

Meanwhile it's dark outside and I can only see a little bit of the area we're driving through. We pass Sun City, drive several miles through Maricopa County and after one and a half hour we stop at the "Super 8 Motel" in Wickenburg. I pay Joey the shuttle fee, say Good Bye and enter the motel. It's simple, not that big and the room is very clean.
The bed is ok, the TV big enough and the AC does not make too much noise. What else do I need after being awake for more than twenty-five hours? I fall into bed and flake out before I can ask myself any question about what tomorrow may bring.

Oct. 3rd 2011

After a restless night, I woke up about five times, I decide to get up at 7:30 am. A continental breakfast, just across the reception, and I'm willing to face the oncoming day. The temperatures are nice and a strong wind is blowing. After I checked out, there is nothing to do than wait. Someone from the ranch will pick me up at about noon. I have no idea who it will be. But because I'm the only one who's waiting here outside the motel, it'll be easy for me to notice when the person arrives. Until then I enjoy the wonderful blue sky and the "heat".

Pretty much on time, the big blue Dodge Ram enters the parking lot and a man with a black cowboy hat gets out of the truck. It's Scott. He just dropped off two Ladies and now he's "loading" the new guest, me! One short stop at Bens Saddlery, where I have to buy a hat, another stop at McDonalds for some drinks and with the next left turn we enter constellation road which will take us all the way to the Williams Family Ranch.

The first few miles it's paved but the moment we leave Maricopa County it turns into a dirt road. And another few miles ahead it's becoming a suspension killing Rock'n Roll track. I enjoy the breathtaking landscape and Scott gives some explanation from time to time.
On the way to the ranch we pass some disused mines. Nearly there, Scott stops because he observed the rancher Roy and three guests who are already there. To my great surprise, two of them are from Germany. Friedel and Oliver. The third one is Simon, a lawyer from Australia. "Hello", shaking hands and "see you later".
One more bend and I see the sign, I saw so often on the photos I watched on the webpages. WILLIAMS FAMILY RANCH. Nearly twelve month since I decided to make this trip. But now I'm here and it is all very thrilling.

The next "Hello" is given to Carrol, Roy's wife. She is a real friendly person and maybe because I've seen her on so many photos before, I don't feel like a stranger at all.
After a nice dinner it's time to feed the horses. Of course I don't wanna miss it. It's the first contact with those animals I will be together with the next days. It's a totally new experience to be so close to those beautiful and big animals. I don't know why, but I'm not afraid at all.

After dawn we all sit together by the camp fire and talk, drink and smoke. Scott, Friedel, Simon, "Smart Ass Bob" (I tell you later what he's got that nickname for) and me. I really feel good, but have to go to bed early; waking up time is six a.m.

Oct, 4th 2011

After getting up at six in the morning, I walk over to the ranch house for some coffee. The temperatures are nice, but the coffee is... well, the american way. First we feed the horses who have to work today and then it's breakfast time. Ham, eggs pancakes, more coffee and whatever men can eat in the morning.

Now it's time for the first horseback riding experience for me. Scott decided to put me on Daisy, a black and white american paint horse. This time he saddles up the horse for me.
But the next step is to lead the horse around in the corral for a few minutes. After it, the saddle straps have to be tightened up again. While I walk around with Daisy, I talk to her and after a few yards she follows me whatever direction I choose, even when I hold the rein very loose. Ok, up on the horse and my first "working" day on the ranch begins. After a few hours we come back to the ranch house for a little break and some coffee.

It's exactly what I have been looking for!
The wilderness, heat, sun, horses and dust.

After the break we have a little cattle drive (round up). We lead the cattle trough a gate in the fence which runs across the dry Hassayampa River. And I feel a little as if I have been doing this already for quite a while; it just seems natural to me.

The day ends with a nice dinner, a lot of talking, drinking, laughing and smoking. Can't wait for tomorrow.

Oct. 5th 2011

The daily expiration has become a good habit. Feeding the horses, having breakfast and next the saddling of the horses. Today, again Daisy is "my" horse. Maybe she remembers me, she seems to be a bit more willing to work than yesterday. The whole forenoon we are out and of course the dogs follow us. One of them, a five month old cute little dog called Jiggs, is my favorite one. Every evening he comes to the Bunkhouse and I try to train him a bit. As long as I feed him, he's willing to pay attention.

In the afternoon Scott and I have to take "Smart Ass Bob" down to Wickenburg. Yes, his real name is Oliver, but because he's talking all day long without even giving you the chance to say something, we all are annoyed and Scott began to call him by his new nickname. After dropping him off at the motel we go for some shopping, to the post office and to McDonald...
And what a coincidence, Smart Ass Bob walks through the door.

On our way to Wickenburg, Scott's got a phone call. He has to pick up two young ladies, who want to stay at the ranch for another two nights. They have been here before and they liked it a lot. Scott seems to be very nervous and he talks about those two until they turn up... Could it be he's in love with one of them?

It's already dark as we are back at the ranch. I'm a bit tired and before I crawl under my blanket I think about the horse I will be riding tomorrow. Its name is Twister and it's a bay one.

Oct. 6th 2011

Twister seems to be just lazy and slow. But after a while he gives up this behavior and everything works just fine. The whole group is riding along the nearly dry Hassayampa River to visit a disused gold mine, where Scott lived for quite a while. Along the river it's pretty green. Grass and little trees still have enough water and from time to time we find waterholes. The horses drink a lot. We all do enjoy this warm and sunny morning. Scott, Friedel, Simon and the two young women Luisa and Steffi.

The mine is just besides the river and it is some kind of a ghost town. The people who left did not take anything with them. Huge machines of all kind are just left wherever they were used for the last time. Trailers and Jeeps, chairs and fireplaces, all of it is abandoned. Words are no able to describe what eyes see.

On our way back, some of the group want to go a bit faster and they let their horses gallop. But for me, trot is good enough. Better safe than fast.

The campfire after dawn is not able to keep me warm. It's a cold evening today, I better go to bed.

Oct. 7th 2011

As usual up at 6.15 in the morning. Without being forced to do so! Simon and the two girls will leave us today. So they write down their e-mail addresses for us and Scott takes them down to Wickenburg in the big blue truck.

Roy says that there will be some work to do today. We will go out and search for cattle...
Yes man, let's go for some real cattle drive. The horse I will be riding today is called SugarBabe. It's a brown one with a reddish shade. After she has been saddled I walk around with her and "tell" her what we will be doing today. And she follows me where ever I go in the corral and I have a good feeling. Sugar is great. She is sensitive and willing to work. One thing she does not like is "Back Up!". But with a little forcefulness also this is accepted by her.

So the three of us are on our way into the hills, scanning the area for cattle. The dogs are with us and it looks as if they enjoy it too. It doesn't take long and Roy discovers some cattle. The area is steep and stony and covered with thorny shrubs and cactuses. Good to know that my chaps will protect me. We must drive the cattle into the right direction and even I have to do my part of the job. It's not difficult ‘cause Sugar does whatever I want her to do. Fast, slow, stop, left or right. She reacts immediately.

Well, of course I got the easiest part of the job. All I have to do is to block every available chance to escape. But from time to time one of those horned animals try it anyhow and that's the point where the action starts. Driving them back with SugarBabe's help, listen to what Roy is calling and frighten the cattle by shouting out loud. "MOVE, GET AWAY"! Yes, like we all have seen it on TV. It's simply thrilling.

When the cattle is on the way to the corral it mostly slows down. We follow the herd and drink our ice-cold water. I wonder about myself, am I doing this really only since a few days? One thing is sure, my favorite activity is DRIVING CATTLE!
But the breaks at the ranch house, where I have some coffee and one or two brownies, are also popular to me.

It's a warm day and so we expand our break just a little. In the afternoon we drive the cattle from the corral to the other side of a fence, which runs across the river. After it's done we climb up the hills and look for more cattle.

After a while, behind a bend of the trail we face three quads. They are from Sun City and are not sure which direction they have to go. Roy talks to them and gives a few explanations. Friedel and I look down on them wondering how people can enjoy the wilderness in a quad. Only on the back of a horse it's natural. Tomorrow is Friedel's last day on the ranch and as far as i know, Roy wants to take him on a long ride.

Oct. 8th 2011

Again a new horse today. It's name is DoGood, it's color is maroon and she tries to get something to "eat" whenever it's possible. It takes a few strictly orders until she accepts that I'm the boss.

It's some kind of a sightseeing tour today. We see points like the big rock they call the eye of the needle and other beautiful areas. Around noon it gets pretty hot and we drink a lot of our ice-cold water. They fill up the bottles in the evening and put them in the fridge or the freezer over night. In the morning it's solid ice which melts only slowly during the day. So we have cool water for several hours.

We are back at the ranch in the early afternoon. After more than six hours in the saddle our bones need some recreation. So the rest of the day we relax with coffee, brownies, ice cream and cigarettes.


Oct. 9th 2011

Today is Sunday and Scott and me will drive Friedel to Wickenburg. Scott told me that there is a small Starbucks at Basha's. So I decide that going there is a MUST.
Good coffee makes me smile and we take Friedel to the "Double D Western Store" where his friends pick him up. Good bye Friedel, have a nice time!

Now I'm the only guest at the ranch. On our way back, Scott and I listen to "96.3 Real Country" and we sing along with all the songs they play. "El Paso" by Marty Robbins, "Big Bad John" and a lot more. It's fun!!!

On the ranch some relatives arrived and we talk all afternoon. In the evening I sit in front of the bunkhouse, Jiggs shows up, wants to be fed and of course stroked.


Oct. 10th 2011

Today we have been out for more than six hours. That's enough horseback riding, even for one like me. Before I go over to the bunkhouse I talk quite a while to Carrol and we watch a bit of TV at the same time.

Oct. 11th 2011

My fifth horse is called Shiny, it's a bit stubborn and Scott has to give me some real good hints how to handle it. After a mile or so everything just works fine. And the most important point is, I can stop the horse whenever I want.

We ride all along the river to the old gold mine again. The sun is shining; it's a warm and quiet forenoon when we arrive at the mine. Scott introduces me to Rudi, who now is taking care of the place and repairing some of the items. Rudi is about fifty years old and comes from Europe. He still speaks a little German and also the coffee he makes is pretty much German.

We chat a while and enjoy the sun. After that European coffee our next stop is a place where a wind mill pumps water out of the deep. Because here the ground is wet enough, the grass is fresh and green and the horses can't get enough of it.

It's nearly noon and the temperatures are rising pretty quick. So we're heading "home" after four hours. After a lazy afternoon I listen to Carrol talking about the history of the ranch. It is very interesting what happened to this place the last decades. The stories about the "Hallelujah People" are incredible. So I listen to her until dark.

Back at the bunkhouse, Jiggs and Maggie show up. Looks as if it's feeding time. They really have become accustomed to it quickly.

Oct. 12th 2011

Today is my last whole day at the ranch. It starts as usual with cowboy coffee and breakfast. Ham, eggs, toast and everything else a man can eat for breakfast. Roy is missing at the breakfast table, because he went down to Wickenburg early in the morning to oversee the slaughter of cattle, he brought down yesterday.

Scott and I saddle up our horses and we're out today just for fun. There's nothing special to do. I'm happy, because I can ride SugarBabe again. She's the one horse I like most. Because of the good coffee we decide to look for Rudi again. The coffee is good, the weather nice and the area along the Hassayampa River is beautiful.

At the ranch house we have sandwiches for lunch and Roy, who's back meanwhile, says he wants to train a young horse this afternoon. Scott rides the young one and I keep a respectable distance to Scott and Roy just for the case the young one would run wild.

About two miles is enough training and so we turn back to the corral. Because it's my last day we keep on staying on the horses for another hour or two. Only Roy stays at the ranch for whatever reason. Maybe he's tired because he got up at five a.m. today.

Scott and I decide to ride over to the other side of the river and on to a short trail. On the way Scott realizes a group of cattle. I don't know why, but he wants to drive them over to the corral. OK man, let's do one last cattle drive! And off we go. The terrain is complex, lots of bushes and little trees and we are really busy to keep the group together. SugarBabe works just fine, as if we both have been doing this forever.

Scott gives me the order to hurry up and open the first gate which is on our way to the corral. So we must part and I have to do this part of the job on my own. For a newbie like me, a real challenge because I have to be at the gate long enough before the cattle arrives. So I force Sugar to speed up. At the gate I remember, that cowboys never get off the horse to open or close a gate. But of course I'm not able to do it their way. My way: out of the saddle, opening the gate, up on the horse and on it goes all along the riverbed to the corral.

Because everything has to be done quickly, I force SugarBabe to run and before I even realize it, she starts to gallop. For a second I'm a little scared, but then I let her go. It's easier than I thought. After I opened the corral gate and pulled that barbed wire fence across the small drive way right next to the corral, I'm back in the saddle, stroking Sugar and waiting for Scott and the cattle.
After several minutes he and the herd appears. Slowly and relaxed. For what reason did he tell me I have to hurry up????

As we close the gate, Roy shows up. He says, there is nothing left to feed the cattle while they are in the corral. That means, free them again and drive them to the other side of the fence. Just the opposite they have been. Well, we brought them all in, so we will be able to bring them all out too. Because there is only Scott and me, it's my part again to be at the gate right in time. Of course as quick as possible. I ask Scott if he is joking, but he shakes his head.

Sugar seems not to be in the mood to run again all the way, but she still is willing to do what I want her to do. The same procedure again, out of the saddle, open the gate, back in the saddle. After it, I steer Sugar to the middle of the riverbed, because if we would be too close to the gate, the cattle would not go through.

Meanwhile it has cooled down and I enjoy the last moments of this thrilling day. Me and Sugar simply standing there, and I try to memorize the situation because I feel peaceful and free. And then the cattle and Scott show up. Again slowly and relaxed. I promise, next time he will open the gates!

Back at the corral I unsaddle Sugar and send her to the rest of the herd with a slap. I feel a little sad, because SugarBabe is such a good horse.

After dinner and warming up at a camp fire, I sit outside the bunkhouse and it does not take long until Jiggs appears. A few pieces of old bread and Jiggs lays down on the matt besides me. It's a full moon tonight, the crickets chirp and I'm writing the last few lines into my diary.

Tomorrow I will go back to Phoenix. I know, I will miss all of this. The friendly Williams family, Scott, the landscape, the horses, the silence, the peacefulness in the evenings and cute little Jiggs,... of course.

Helmut, 2011

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